Sunday, November 16, 2008

Some posts updated

For those of you who didn't attend the conference in Houston in October, I've added some photos by Richard Swearinger from Better Homes and Gardens to some of the posts. Many thanks to everyone who was there in Houston. My next post will be after I visit the special food collections at NYU. Also, I will post some digital 101 resources soon.

Saturday, October 18, 2008

AFJ and Roberta Anding

Roberta Anding, Texas Children's Hospital Adolescent Sports Department, followed Berube and noted that information for the average consumer and try to apply that to athletes. For example, the low-carb craze has been completely misinterpreted. This does not apply to athletes. Some athletes cramp regularly due too little sodium.

Also, BMI does not apply to athletes. Noted one retired Houston Texan who had BMI of 37 but had 19 percent body fat. The rules are different.

It's a misconception that want athletes want grease, fried foods and big portions. She created a line for people with cholesterol issues, body fat management and heredity cancer risks. Eighty percent of her athletes choose this "lean line."

She's seeing a trend towards "eating clean." The average Texan will consume 5,000 calories a day. She has to tell athletes that she doesn't want them to eat a lot of animal fat, but add pesto and pecan crusted chicken. Food must have a lot of calories in relatively small volume. It's not good nutrition if they're wearing it on their shoes.

There is now emphasis on homemade sports nutrition -- making sports or recovery drinks. She worked with Hakeem Olajuwon and they made a sports drink with pineapple juice plus salt.


The number one performance buster is dehydration. At least 50 percent of athletes are dehydrated and don't know they are. You have to think about not merely drinking but how much. So weigh to see how much water weight you lose. Every pound you lose is equivalent to 16 oz. of sweat. An athlete who drinks a gallon of water but may have lost more than that. Hyponatremia, or overhydration with not enough sodium, can kill and its symptoms are insidious.

You would also want high water volume foods -- fruit, vegetables, milk and yogurt. Athletes know when they sit down they need 50 percent of the plate as fruit and vegetables and 50 percent other stuff. Rarely does she that 80 percent of fluid comes from voluntary drinking and 20 percent from food. If you lose 1 to 2 percent of body weight, you lose 15 percent of performance. Fluid is best legal ergogenic aid. Also, athletes should look at first morning urine. We have all heard that if your urine is clear, you're hydrated. Your kidneys may get the fluid, but your muscles may not. But the clear urine is a fallacy.

You should know when to use a sports drink. Sweat is salty so you can't drink water all the time. For the average person, excess sodium is an issue. But you can have seizures, cerebral edema and then can you die. You don't need salt to watch, but if you play, you do need salt for recovery especially if the area is humid and hot.


Coaches set body weights, not nutritionists. So athletes to dehydrate themselves to make weight. Anding would recommend not fining athletes for being overweight. Plus, dietary supplements with items like ephedra and bitter orange raise core body temperature and accelerate dehydration. Texans only team in NFL who has a lean line.

There comes a time when athletes need to replace carbohydrate and salt from performance. What determines carbohydrate needs is intensity and duration of their activity. Sustained activity for 45 minutes burns 100 percent carbs. If you ramp up the intensity, the fuel burn will change. Take a female freshman soccer player. She doesn't play much, but she practices hard. So she needs carbohydrate after practice but not on game day.

Anding would love to see some homemade recipes for concentrated carbs. Athletes are looking for more choices. It would have to be portable, and have carbs and salt. Sportsbeans are jelly beans with sport. You could time this story to preparation for your local marathon.

Sugars are sprinting carbs. If you're looking for sustained energy, you want something with a lower glycemic index. A pre race meal of lentils, yogurt and chopped up apples, which slows glucose absorption. A good story idea would be raceday nutrition.

Also, the concept of recovery crosses all sports, age groups and classes. Anding works with inner city schools. Recovery is feeding the muscles when muscles are hungry, which is about 30 minutes after exercise.

Heat recovery food should be something liquid with 4 grams of carbs to 1 gram to protein. Chocolate milk works (solid foods divert cooling blood to the stomach and are not recommended). as does the old reliable PBJ. Liquid is better but you can eat if that's your only option. Pre competition and recovery foods should be low in fat. The timing of the pre-competition meal is important. General rule of thumb is largest meal no more than 3 to 4 hours before game time.

Closer to game time, go from solid to liquid. Anxiety shuts down digestive process. She has awakened athletes at 4 a.m., fed them so they can race at 8 a.m.

Some aesthetically oriented athletes want low volume foods to avoid the appearance of bloat.

Moving on to protein, most guys think they need more protein to make more muscle. The average athletes need more protein. The average person needs a half gram of protein per pound of body weight; athletes need twice as much. Carbohydrate acts as protein's bodyguard. Female triad athletes think they need more protein, but really they need carbs to protect protein's role in sustaining you. She needs to help bust the myth of protein consumption.

Carnation Instant Breakfast is as good as high-dollar protein supplements. Do the comparison.

One resource for writers is Nancy Clarke's Sports Nutrition Guide. You can also find Anding's information at www.HoustonTexans.com. Click on the Fan Zone link, then scroll down to "fitness."

People think that athletes don't have heart disease, diabetes or hypertension. They do, so look at the sources of protein. She recounted a 27-year old who had a heart attack and had one of the worst lipid panels she had ever seen. Most athletes want to win, but they also want to be mommies, daddies and family members.

You should see a nutritionist if you have a chronic condition and want to compete.

Hyponatremia mimicks dehydration, except for weight gain, upper respiratory symptoms and swollen hands and feet. Weigh yourself to check for it. If you gain weight after workouts, be aware. More likely in women who are slow runners.

AFJ Bonnie Berube and Nutritional Analysis

Bonnie Berube presented on nutritional analysis and gave a handout detailing the information. This will be posted on the AFJ website since it is information dense and I would be hard pressed to summarize accurately in real time.

She did point out the gluten intolerance craze and other allergens have impacted nutritional analysis. IBS is the trendy new disease.

Berube has found some resistance to packaging things as healthy so she recommends using other terms.


While many people keep an eye on fat content, most of the average consumers do not pay as close attention to sodium and fiber content. Her company also does labeling, with one employee doing boudin.

Berube offered her website, www.brbconsulting.com, as a resource. For foreign foods, there are two options. If you're using ballpark shot or no physician needs the accurate information, you could use a substitution. But that can raise issues.

Berube was asked for a recommendation for a nutritional database program for food editors. her company has looked at programs through the years. She likes Nutritionist Pro, which is user friendly and gives sound information. They also have good technical support.

It was asked if Berube's firm did analysis by serving or by portion. Their company analyzes by portion, which may be multiple servings. Most restaurants don't want to reduce portions since they think customers will not patronize them. Also, look at the largest item on some platters. It's usually some fried item like French fries.

AFJ ethics and business meeting

The ethical discussion panel brought up issues facing many of our members. It will probably be better for AFJ if I don't summarize a lot of that discussion here, but I encourage attendees to use the forums on our website to explore some of these issues further. I think the same is true for the business meeting.

AFJ with Jonathan Gold

Pulitzer Prize winner Jonathan Gold tried to write like Calvin Trillin and noted that the great thing about being a journalist was being able to call anyone up and tie them up for part of a day. He notes that you should be well read because you can't write well if you don't read well. He once had an editor who wold read copy aloud and you would anything to please him after hearing your prose fired back at you.

For readers the consumer part is the most interesting, but as a writer it's the least interesting part. For different audiences you have to explain different references. You don't explain bechamel to Gourmet readers; you don't explain Fat Boy Slim to readers of the LA Weekly.

The more you get paid, the more you get people denuding your prose style. At some of the slicks, a piece goes through 12 or 14 editors and you have to be strong to survive that process.

How does Gold find his spots? When he started in the 80s, LA was a food hot center, exporting chefs and trends. The ethnic immigration brought populations to LA that gave rise to more cuisine. It's odd to follow international geopolitics through the restaurants in your neighbhorhood.

You have to eat a lot of mediocre meals to find ones that stand out. He reads ethnic newspapers to skim the restaurant ads even if he doesn't read the language.

He tries to read as much as he can in English about a particular cuisine. He recommended The Complete Guide to Asian Food published in Australia (didn't catch the author's name).

He has a lot different Indian cookbooks> Personal favorite: Tasty Dishes from Waste Items, which includes multiple recipes for banana peels.

He doesn't think you need a lot of space for restaurant reviews. At Gourmet he wanted to do for restaurant writing what Pauline Kael did for film writing. For the first year, it's was good. For a writer, thinking about a restaurant for a month is a maddening intellectual exercise most restaurant can't stand up to.

For a restaurant review, if you talk about more than 8 or 10 dishes, you lose the readers, so dig deep into two or three.

Moderator Dallas Morning News critic Bill Addison asked how to keep it fresh after 25 years? Gold said if he thought about keeping it fresh, he'd be mad in a corner talking to himself. Keep reading. Cited an example of chemist who writes perfume reviews. Read it and 27 ways of describing something pop into your mind. As long as you keep what you're thinking fresh, your writing will be fresh.

First places with Shangdong cuisine were fascinating. The 14th one has to be really freaking good in order to merit attention.

A huge fad in LA and Houston in Cantonese community of Cajun food cooked by Vietnamese. Many of these will be gone in two year. There's a dynamic of faddishness in all restaurant cultures.

Gold writes 800-1,000 CounterIntelligence column, an advice column called Ask Mr. Gold and 600-word First Bites, which is three a week. Some restaurants are as good as they're going to get when they first open. However, Gold thinks some places settle into their groove in six weeks to 2 months after opening.

Most people who want to break into writing are doing a blog, and they will get better with adult supervision, Gold says. The Weekly advertised for someone to cover restaurant gossip, and was inundated with resumes. They will end probably going with the person who is already blogging about it.

The Pulitzer has meant Gold gets phone calls returned quicker. He's not getting calls as much for some freelance work, because people think he's too busy. He's not.

Gold says he often doesn't remember faces but can remember soup eaten 15 years ago and whether it's garnished with parsley or chevril.

He looks for a throughline of narrative in a dish. Not many chefs can do that. Sometimes he's not sure what he thinks until he finishes the piece. He's more descriptive than thumbs up or thumbs down.

Gold has gone to some restaurants at many as 17 times. Taiwanese cuisine is different with stinky tofu that smells like a dumpster, plus bitter melon that's bitter like cancer medicine and soups that taste like someone put out a cigar in them. People were enjoying the dishes and he didn't bring the cultural values to the cuisine. He kept going back, never loved it but could explain it.

He likes to lead stories with the food, but it depends. He works for a weekly owned by misers but likes value cuisines so his expenses don't compare with being at Gourmet with a $10,000 budget.

As for anonymity, most chefs know who you are. Gold doesn't do television, but has been photographed. He has chefs he's friends with and his wife is former food editor. He is willing to lose friends to write the review he has to write, and he has. Back in the days where he thought no one knew who he was, but would run into chefs who could tell him chapter and verse when he had been in.

He writes longer pieces in spurts, but jams out shorter pieces. Gold quoted Annie Lamott in saying the secret of good writing is a shitty first draft. He knows his own work well enough to find some of his own weaknesses. You also have to earn the first person. Don't be too fancy. It would be nice if there were more words for salty.

You are always better served by looking at your copy afterwards and striking out two of three adverbs. If they'renot too fruity, analogies are your friends.

Friday, October 17, 2008

AASFE afternoon idea swap

The session on ideas for various yearly events were presented in a PowerPoint presentation. The section fronts will be on on the AFJ and the AASFE websites, which are linked to here. There was also a discussion of industry changes affecting features and food sections. Some editors are seeing their writers turning up in other areas in the paper, others see section front ads, others are wrapping comics around classified. Some are using more reader-generated content with some reluctance. But it's been successful as part of a zoning plan in Omaha. Someone asked about viability for pet obits. Silence. Many editors are seeing their writers writing for other sections, but others are looking and plug and play reporters, overlooking the fact that multimedia success is about an identifiable persona. Many editors are fighting the battle to keep local critics in our sections and to keep standalone sections. Weirdest idea: melding features and sports in one section.

Many ideas for cooperating were shared. All in all sobering but useful.

Creating multimedia food content at AASFE

Addie Broyles deconstructed Twitter and how its microblogging capabilities resemble watercooler conversation or church chat. You can link your Tweets to your blog and there is some software that helps with that. Facebook also a good way to reach out to users. Giveaways also connect with users. Perhaps extend membership in AJ to bloggers (Editorial comment: assuming bloggers meet basic ethical standards). Broyles says she puts recipes from blogs in print. She is struggling with how to compensate bloggers fur using content. Don't think of them as competition, think of them as resources.

Jill Silva of the Kansas City Star talked about adding online slide shows and videos to augment print content. Demonstrated video on making marshmallows with flash photography interrupting events. They try to post videos weekly. They did a food stamp buying story with vlogs and photos. They also did a multimedia Thanksgiving package with web recipes, pro Q&As, podcasts, message boards and videos plus archives of past Thanksgiving stories.


Robin Davis of the Columbus Dispatch. The paper is family-owned. They melded other sections but left the food section to a standalone. They are only one left in Ohio and are down to four pages from eight. But they decided to cross brand and do a branded website, dispatchkitchen.com

Davis now does weekly television segments with the co-owned CBS affiliate. The station did not have a studio kitchen, but they built the Dispatch Kitchen in the North Market in Columbus (like the Farmer's Market in Los Angeles). They work with the Market on using the space. They usually tape on Wednesday mornings. The market offers cooking classes when the space is not in use.

The site has all of the print content but the recipe search is not functional due to the usual paradigm shifts. The video doesn't work on Macs, and is irregularly functional. Print ads are down, and consolidation is looming. They did three TV specials, including a holiday special that won its time slot. Online ads are on the increase.

Davis' face is associated with food in Columbus. She often gets recognized as lady on TV, lady on the Web and the lady in the newspapers. Ike affected Columbus with 300,000 without power for about a week. Readers were calling about food safety, and they did content on TV, in print and on the Web. The Red Cross asked her to present their food safety information because she was trusted and reliable. She is here and couldn't do it.

Broyles mentioned Google reader and RSS syndication (I'm not explaining them fully but go to wikipedia and all will be revealed). Davis says she hardly writes longer, award fodder pieces since she doesn't have time, spending 20 percent of her time on the TV side.